Em's write up, with additional comments by Tuss, Katie, and Pete

Day One - Saturday 28/9/2013
After an amazing breakfast in Westport at PR's Cafe we hit the road before 9am and briefly stopped in at the Denniston Incline, but were denied a view by the driving rain. Really good displays though, with lots of photos so you can imagine what a tough life it would have been as a miner living on the Denniston plauteau.

Kohaihai Shelter (track start) to Lewis Hut

Tongue poking always helps

1. Kohaihai Shelter to Katipo Shelter (noon start) 1 hr 15 min to the Katipo Creek Shelter (track starts with a hill to Scotts Beach and then follows the coastline via beach on occasions and some creeks to negotiate)

2. Katipo Shelter to Heaphy Hut 1 hr (after 30 min lunch stop)

...looks easy!

3. Heaphy Hut to Lewis Hut 1 hr 10 min (30 min stop. Track turns inland 
and follows the Heaphy River under
tree cover) 

Reflecting on what is to come

The task at hand...

An early bridge crossing

Regular downpours were slightly demoralizing while packing at the Kohaihai Shelter. Lots of cyclists were finishing the track covered in mud but happy, so that was a good sign(?).

After crossing the Kohaihai River at track start, we headed off up the hill. I walked lots and got sweaty very quickly. There were plenty of scary bits right at the start and I almost fell over a number of times. I was already feeling pretty unfit and concerned about surviving the trip - I was on a rented bike I'd ridden only once before. Despite my concerns, I pressed on, determined to get through my hardships.

Food and humour at Katipo Shelter

In amongst the palms

The scenery along the rugged sand beach and rocky outcrops was excellent, although the track was challenging me with sometimes rocky, muddy and then boggy patches. After the Katipo Shelter lunch stop the track got a bit easier, although there were still some tricky creek crossings and sections of steep, loose rock. Lots of flat straight sections at beach level, rolling through the nīkau palms. Awesome fast last stretch to Heaphy Hut. Saw no one at Heaphy at 3.30 even though it was completely booked out.

Beach crossing action

From Heaphy to Lewis Hut, the track heads inland along the Heaphy River for the most part and mostly under tree cover. Lots more Mud. After reaching the hut and settling into our bunk room, Pete and I lost Rock, Paper, Scissors, and Katie got to lighten her load by making the first dinner with Tuss. Home dehydrated Shepherd's Pie, which was delish! As commonly happen; there were lollies, hot chocolate and chocolate for dessert.

Lewis Hut in the rain

Oh the joys of staying in a warm hut after a physical, wet day outside! There was one other group at the hut, a group of guys from Westport, who had stoked up the coal fire early. They were real characters, chugging their vodka and rum from glass bottles. They had had a tough day coming down from James Mackay Hut and warned us of mud, rocks, steps and bridges, with impossible approaches. One guy had been over the handle bars a few times because of the huge holes in puddles below bridges. they warned us there would be swearing, anger and frustration. Boy were they right!

Katie raving

Bed by 8pm, to the sound of continuing vodka and rum chugging in the next room.





Day two 
Lewis hut to Gouland Downs Hut

Morning prep

l. Lewis Hut to James McKay Hut 3 hr 30 min (uphill HELL!) 
2. James McKay Hut to Saxton Hut 2hrs (rough but not all uphill. A more alpine environment) 
3. Saxton Hut to Gouland Downs Hut 45 min (more of the same + a caving adventure just before the hut)

"What the *expletive* am I doing here? How the hell did I get into this? I haven't even done much mountain biking. NO. I signed up for a *expletive* adventure and that is exactly what I am getting. I wanted a challenge and to get out of my comfort zone and THAT is exactly where I *expletive* am. So get the *expletive* on with it!"

Uphill...

That was my monologue during the three and a half hours of climbing up from Lewis Hut. The guys at Lewis had warned us that it was muddy and there were huge drop-offs, as well as big steps, and a few of them had gone over the handle-bars more than once. We really were going at walking speed. Uphill. Mostly walk, pulling or throwing the bike up behind. My arms are So Sore. So why was it so hard? It was all up hill. Everything was wet and slippery from the heavy rain. There were some large steps you could not ride.

Track clearing

Uphill stream crossing

*Grin*

Just before James Mackay Hut

It is quite hard work lifting yourself wearing a backpack and a bike with heavy dry bag up a high step. Mud. Deep mud. Slippery skid-out mud where you loose traction, or deep mud which just so do you wheels in and doesn't let them move. Then there is the getting off the bike when something didn't work and getting back on again. Over and over. That in itself is exhausting. Failing a move is annoying enough without the added work of getting off, getting on your bike, and then walking to find an appropriate place to get back on that horse. Walking was often quicker. Most of the little bridges had edges to them; steps from our direction [the downhill side] of up to a foot. Then on the uphill side, a huge dip, usually mud, and a puddle. Even if you could bike up them sometimes that wouldn't work as the puddle was deeper than it looked, or your back wheel might just spin out in the mud. Getting on and off the bike also the a lot of energy - plus the feeling of failure when you don't bike up something. I was so exhausted and grumpy after 3 hours of it. I was almost in tears and hating it. Finally the hut at top of the main climb. So exhausted.

Looking back to Heaphy River mouth

Meet up with the car swap crew

Lunch. Big feed in the Warm hut at James Mackay. Onwards. The next stretch the vegetation was more Alpine and we really were crossing a plateau. Some boardwalks, but some up hill too which was where I realised my legs were also really tired. Mostly it was less technical than earlier, with only a few gnarly bits. Met up with our car switch group and swapped keys! Good to see them - they seemed to be enjoying it. I was trying to. Lots of namw traok with light tree and vegetation which made for softer landings' I really pushed myself through this section. Threw me and my bike at it in attack mode. Sound effects, such as war cries as you attack something technical, do help. Fell lots. Slippery branches and roots. Loose rocks. A few lovely bridges and mossy bunks with small alpine trees around. Very picturesque if you stopped to take it in. More level wide flat bits of track in this section. Saxon Hut! So glad to see it. Scroggin: lollies.

Saxon Hut

Mud at Saxon Hut

Walk time to Gouland Downs Hut: 1hr 30 min. We took 45 min. Fast flat tussock land with some wet muddy stretches. Two river crossings, which were fun! Just before the hut Katie, Pete and I headed off to explore some caves. Awesome waterfall coming out of a huge opening. We explored above the cave entrance and with a head torch, climbed through a cave system took us to the top of the waterfall. AWESOME. It was such a cool find and it really made our day. Oh, and we got to the hut before the rain set in!

Katie cruising	Tuss dipping	Tuss dripping
Em focusing	Waterfall at cave entrance
Peek-a-boo!

Gouland Downs is a cosy wee Hut. When we arrived, a quiet English couple walking the track (and planning to do all 9 Great Walks) were there already along with Tuss, and later two guys from Dunedin turned up on their bikes in the dark. They had come from  Kohaihai Shelter (track start on West Coast side) in one day and planned to cycle all the way back the following day after a quick spin up to Perry Saddle Hut. MAD. And they didn't enjoy it. Thai Chicken curry far out performed the other offerings in our mixed dehy dinner feast. Beef stroganoff and Lamb fettuccine really did nothing to sell dehy meals to anyone. Open fire is lovely, and only 8 bunks in hut. Rain on the roof not so cool, cos it means the track will be wet tomorrow. At least my riding confidence has improved, and this has quadrupled the mountain bike riding I have done in my life!

Gouland Downs Hut

Notes to self... if I ever mountain bike again: get a bike with disk brakes, make sure back pack sits high, get a back cover, get clipless pedals and ride with cleats.





Day three -  Sunday 29/9/2013
Gouland Downs Hut to Browns Hut (track end) 
1. Gouland Downs Hut to Perry Saddle Hut 1 hr 30 min (with mechanical stop)
2. Perry Saddle Hut to Aorere Shelter 1hr (with a stop at Flanagans Corner viewpoint)
3. Aorere Shelter to Browns Hut 1hr 30 (with lots of photo stops)

Sunrise delight

Woke early to a fabulous sun rise and crisp frost... and an awful smell. The stench in the small hut in the morning was pungent from drying wet, muddy clothes and shoes, which had all been carefully laid out in front of the warm roaring fire the night before. In the frosty cold morning all that is left is the collective stench. Achy sore bodies woke up slowly as the sun warmed, and after breakfast we were ready to put on our dirty clothes and do it all again. Our bike seats were frosty and mine even had a frozen puddle.

Em's frozen seat

From Gouland Downs Hut we set out over a flattish area towards Perry Saddle Hut. Not far down the track on a steady uphill, Katie's rear deraileur went crunch - it was majorly bent. After some inventive mechanical fixing, which included using the closest DOC '1km' signpost as a pivot, it was twisted back into a position where it could be peddled in low gear only. Whew! Powered past the boot tree. More uphill, some steep. The low alpine ground coverage meant you could see landmarks and it always felt like you were making progress. Fabulous lookout pics. Arrived at Perry saddle hut in the sun!

Gouland Downs

Last bit before Perry Saddle Hut

Giant Snail shell

Large bush worm

 
We had an early pre-lunch lunch on the veranda with a stunning view. Pete invited us up to the staff hut for tea with Gary the warden. Lovely new staff quarters. After a relaxing chat and cupper we headed outside- and saw a "NZ garden snake" , the biggest worm EVER. Sized to match the giant snails, who actually eat them. Their empty shells can be seen at regular intervals and if you are lucky, you might see one or two live ones during the day. They generally come out at night and often onto the track, which is why it is forbidden to ride the Heaphy after dark.

Flanagans Corner

Finally after a 2km slight uphill to Flanagans Corner viewpoint, we were going downhill. Yip, rolling DOWN. Easy gravity assisted downhill, although with stretches of loose rock, wet and slippery roots, mud, and slippery green mossy rocks. There were lots of creek crossings too, which were fun. Yay, Browns Hut and the track end! We did it!! Such a great feeling of achievement.

Downhill!		Approaching the end
		WHAT AN EPIC RIDE!!

A quick 6km on a well formed metal road with 3 fords finally got us to the car. The fords were welcome to wash the layers of mud off our legs.

It had been an epic adventure, with plenty of spills and challenges along the way, and all with with a stunning backdrop of changing vegetation and amazing scenery. Even if we did not get to see much of it on some stretches, because we were intensely focused on which line to take at speed for avoiding the next obstacle coming up on the track.Some of us topped up our swear word use. Big times; my theory on mountain biking is now ATTACK, ATTACK, ATTACK! Speed and momentum will get you through most bits. Oh, and relax... and making sound effects always helps 'Whoop, whoop!

We freak'n did it!